Thursday 31 October 2013

The everyday life of a volunteer

Were now at our eight week here, with five weeks left to go before we say goodbye to the girls at Corazon Grande and Bolivia. It has taken almost two months to really get into the everyday life as volunteers at the house and come to the point where we are now. The time out we had in La Paz was necessary to be able to take some distance to the work and our roles at the house, and after returning many things have felt easier and become clearer. Since the day we arrived the problem hasn't been coming up with ideas what to do with the girls or taking initiative, it's just been hard to find a way to do the things without a common language, and to find the balance between taking initiative and stepping on someone else's toes.

For the first month at least I was feeling that I didn't really have a purpose here, that I could be doing so much more than I was doing and for a moment I started questioning myself and my competences. It felt like all the things I've learned through the many years of working with kids were useless and the things I'm good at (or thought I was good at) had no value. I would say that leaving the house for a few days made it easier to see which things we actually can do something about and which things just are out of our reach. Being able to talk with other volunteers and hear about their experiences also made me us realize that the challenges we've faced are common among volunteers and that we're not alone with our confused feelings.



Now, after already being two thirds of our time here we've come to a point when we're beginning to find our places with the girls and among the staff at the house. The everyday life has become more easy-going and we've also got more structure to our work due to a schedule we made. We've also learned to take it more easy and realized that they need us here, even though it's sometimes feels just like a small favor for us to do. After all, it's not either good that the girls or the staff relies too much on volunteers as it's not guaranteed that there will be someone here all the time.

I guess it has also become more easy to handle the things that in the beginning caused many sleepless nights. As I wrote before, these small human beings have gone through things that I don't even want to say out loud. We made a decision not to read their files because we're afraid that knowing everything about their past it would change the way we look at them. Though we can't totally avoid hearing things about them, and some things are also necessary to know. A few weeks back a new girl (13-years old) got placed here at Corazon Grande, so we got to experience that too and it's been interesting to see how she has adapted to the life here. How sad as it sounds I would say that many children growing up in this machismo-culture are better off at a foster home than with their own families. I think it says something that only here in Cochabamba, which is a city the size of Helsinki there are over 100 foster homes, not all as good as others. One thing that I can say for sure is that the girls here are very lucky, and thanks to this place have chance in life. This year Corazon Grande will actually have a student graduate, for the first time. She is the oldest one here, 18-years old and the best student at her school.

Since a few days back we've been working on a project to help Corazon Grande buy school materials for the girls - which we'll need your help with! You'll hear about it very soon. But before that I though it would be nice to share with you what our everyday life here actually is about and maybe reveal some moments behind the scenes! 

To make it even more challenging for ourselves we've taken a few things in our own hands and for example come up with "creative Sundays", which always are fun. Last Sunday we baked muffins that due to our not so awesome oven in the end looked like something baked in Chernobyl. But they tasted really good! Moreover the last four Sundays have been about making Christmas cards that need to be sent to all the supporters in Finland and Norway. Finally they are all done.


A tired baker taking a rest on our living room floor




Basically our work here consists of hanging out with the girls, and it's often about being there when they need us. We help them with their homework, make handicrafts, teach English, play basketball or whatever comes up. We also hug, kiss, sing goodnight lullabies and read stories in Spanish - which often is quite hilarious. Those moments can not be caught on camera, as neither the many times we just hang out with the girls. Sometimes what they need is to get a little extra attention just for themselves, and maybe have someone listen to them read a story or just talk or fool around for a while.    

Of course we also help our with household chores like cooking, baking, cleaning or whatever needs to be done. I would love to do a bit more but the staff here doesn't want to ask us for too much as we after all are just volunteers. In the beginning they didn't dare to ask us for help with anything but now they've started to realize that we actually like to help and have something to do.  

Our two youngest girls (3 and 5-years old) helping out in the kitchen
Fresh pan!


Picking manzanilla-flowers for the evening maté



Teaching English
A tired student learning the alphabet in English

Every Monday Julia and I do a night shift at Casa Baste, as there is no staff present after dinner. The first times it was exciting, though quite chaotic as we had no idea what to do and didn't understand so much of what the girls were trying to ask or tell us. Now it's already become a routine and I would say that we handle it really well, considering that we always get everyone to bed at night and manage to get them up, showered, dressed, combed and fed before they leave to school. All of this happening in Spanish, at 6 o'clock in the morning.

About twice a week it's our duty to take two of the girls home from their ballet class in the evening, which is always and adventure. The girls are sisters, and they are always coming up with something! They also love to sing and show off so it's always very entertaining spending time with them.

Another important job we have is driving the girls and the staff to church every Sunday morning. All 25 girls + a few adults in a car for 14 people, it's a space miracle! No one from the staff, except Angel a.k.a Papi knows how to drive so in this matter they depend on the volunteers as Papi doesn't work in the weekends. During the week he's the one who takes the girls to and back from school, drives them around, takes care of grocery shopping and other practical things. I have to say that Papi Angel is irreplaceable, and also the only man who works at the house.

Still about 10 people missing from the car...




The girls fooling around with Papi

Besides driving to the church on Sundays they might spontaneously ask us to take some girls somewhere with the car, in case we have time. As we have become masters in cruising around around in Cochabamba, we never say no! Once we drove all the older girls to a gala-party and that's when this picture is taken. All looking so beautiful!




That same night the car broke down on the way home. So we ended up being stuck in the car waiting for help for two hours in the middle of a storm on the main road to Tiquipaya, together with a 11-year old. Eventually we got help, got the car running again and drove straight back to pick up the girls from the party, three hours later.And this happened on our second week here.

Entertaining ourselves in the car

As I've already mentioned a couple of times in the past they eat a lot of cake here in Bolivia. Also at our house it feels like we're having cake all the time, and every second week it's someone's birthday or some other fiesta. During fiestas we always eat all together, and there's always a huge cake! According to the tradition the one being celebrated has to take the first bite from the cake, and always gets pushed face forward straight in to the cake. 
 

Double birthday! 








Last but not least I want to mention our furry friends at Corazon Grande. Dogs are mostly considered as watchdogs and not pets around here, but I have to say that the dogs at our house are far from scary watchdogs. Since the first time we stepped inside the gates to this place we have been very good buddies with Sasha and Djeyna, our dogs. I don't think I need to say more about the characters of these dogs, I'll let the pictures tell the rest.
Morning Sasha







Monday 28 October 2013

Time out - La Paz and around in five days


So, as I already mentioned Julia and I took a five days time out from work and left on an adventure to La Paz. We headed to the Cochabamba bus station last Friday at 6am and jumped on the next bus towards La Paz, which cost us as only bs30 (about 3€) as we took a last minute deal. About eight hours and some thrilling mountain roads later we had traveled about 232km and rised over 1000m in altitude. With the help of a Bolivian stranger who spoke both Swedish and Finnish we found our way to our hostel, a cozy family-owned hostel called Sol Andina which I warmly recommend if anyone is traveling to La Paz in the near future. 

The city of La Paz

After a quick check in at the hostel (and a very long hot shower for the first time in a month) we headed to a hotel near by where we were going to have dinner with Siw, some people from the Salvation Army in La Paz and the Norwegians, who where enjoying their last night in Bolivia. It was that night Julia had her first llama beef- which according to her was "quite okey" a.k.a "aika jees".


Our first morning in La Paz started early when we together with Siw jumped on a bus towards Lake Titicaca, which is the "highest located" lake in the world and the largest lake in South America, on the border of Bolivia and Peru. Siw had got us on a tourist bus - which is believed to be "safer, more comfortable and faster". I have to say that it was an interesting experience as I've never taken a tourist bus while traveling, and I still don't really understand the difference. The tourist bus is lot more expensive, more crowded in this case and in the end it's the same dangerous roads, so if the bus is going to drive off a cliff the beautiful curtains or WI-fi aren't gonna save the ones on it. Though Julia realized that the advantage with Wi-fi is that you might have the chance to say your farewells on Facebook before you crash into the bottom off a cliff, in case you have a smartphone...


Anyhow, the view from the bus was amazing as we descended down the Andes towards the small town of Copacabana at the shore of Lake Titicaca. Surrounded by snow-tops at an altitude of over 4000 the view was breath taking as the lake opened up below us. As our bus was late we just had a quick stop at Copacabana and continued one and a half hour by boat towards Isla del Sol (Island of the sun), where we would stay over the night.


Isla del Sol right in front of us


Isla del Sol, what can I say... The perfect place for a time out. Even though the whole island practically is a tourist attraction, you can't see or hear anyone. The island is quite big and is consists of several villages and communities and there are no roads or cars, only small paths to get you from one place to another. As Siw had been on the island before she knew the perfect place to take us to - the very top of the island, from where we could enjoy the sunset on one side of the island and the sunrise on the other side. Trembling up the hill is not very pleasant as you basically run on minimum oxygen being at an altitude of 4000m, so many tourist stay at the lower parts of the island, close to the harbor. Therefor it is quiet and peaceful on the top and the most living creatures you meet are donkeys, llamas or sheep.

Our plan on Isla del Sol was basically to relax and enjoy the scenery, and so we did. Having a beer as the sun went down, pizza and wine for dinner and a early wake up to a beautiful sunrise. What more can I say. It was a well earned time out. Last but not least, we had some spare time the next morning while waiting for the boat back to Copacabana and I just couldn't resist to take a swim in the lake. After all, the water is believed to be holy.


 






sunrise
The holy lake Titicaca, mountain tops and Isla de la Luna in the background. It was freezing, but awesome!!!


After chilling at Isla del Sol it was time to get our adrenalin flowing. Julia and I returned to La Paz, from where we the next day would leave on what we now would refer to the coolest ride of our lives. In other words, a ride down the Yungas road; the worlds most dangerous road a.k.a the death road or as they say her "Camino de la Muerte" on mountain bikes.




We went with a company called Gravity assisted mountain biking, which is said to be the best in Bolivia and I have to say I would agree to that. Gravity is run by Kiwi's, so the guides are native English speakers. As all extreme-sport guides also ours were a bit crazy, new their thing and had a great sense of humor. The continuous joking about us driving of the cliff or our brakes failing somehow made it easier to handle the millions of butterflies in our stomachs. Our guides were also filming and photographing our experience the whole time, so most of the pictures are thanks to them!

Before we began descending from an altitude of 4700m at La Cumbre, we followed the Bolivian traditions and honored the goddess Pachamama (Mother Earth) by giving her a few drops of 97% alcohol (pirtua). A few drops on the ground, a few drops on our bikes and one zip for ourselves. It is believed to bring good luck and bless us during our ride.







Trying to lean over the edge to see the ruins of a bus that had driven off the cliff a few years back - nobody survived
jeeeeeeeeeee!

Woohooooooooo! 

Trying to fight the wind resistance!! And of course looking cool.


After coming down 22km on an asphalt road we reached our first checkpoint from where we got back in the van and drove 8km uphill to get to the actual death road. It is possible to bicycle the eight kilometers, but as there's almost no oxygen it wasn't recommended. Therefor our guides practically bribed us with granola bars and bananas to get back in the car. It wasn't an option not to if we wanted to have energy for the remaining 40km.





Again looking cool and doing what I shouldn't be doing, posing with one hand off the wheel. With Julia right behind me, looking cool as well!

The line is the road we'd just bicycled - here you can see where the road got it's name from.
Funfunfun heheee not looking down





The postcard-corner. I.e the most famous spot of the death road


Me looking at the views, again something I shouldn't be doing. Behind is our third guide Fernanda and our van

We made it!!! Sweaty and relieved!
A few hours and about 63km later we had descended from an altitude of 4700m to 1200m where we ended the ride, and the feeling was awesome!! Overall the experience was so much more awesome than we expected (as we really didn't have any idea what to expect) and both of us survived the whole ride without falling or driving off the edge. What comes to Gravity they made the experience what it was, providing us with mountain bikes worth over 2500 dollars, good clothing and equipment, professional instructions and guiding, and a shoulder to cry on if needed. At the end the guides also bought us all a cold beer, the very moment we got of our bikes all sweaty and feeling like jello. I have to say that luckily we also had a really nice group of 11 people, who all survived the ride and together made the experience a lot of fun.

After enjoying our beers we continued to our last part of the trip, the animal refugee La Senda Verde. Gravity is the only company who has the privilege to take their groups there, and it definitely was a great way to end the day. There we could have a shower, take a swim and enjoy a great buffet dinner, all included in the trip. Of course we also got to see some animals who are running free at the refugee, but keeping the stripper rule in mind - the animals can touch you but you can't touch them. 




Who's in a cage now?
 





A pit stop next to La Senda Verde, a local Cholita and a lot of coca leaves. The area "Coroico" is one of the biggest coca-producers in Bolivia...

Late in the afternoon we headed back to La Paz, tired but happy. I don't know which one was more scary, driving the mountain bike down the death road or enjoying the road sitting in the car. At least while driving the bike you don't have time to look down over the edge, though the views from the car were amazing at the time of sunset. 

Below is a link to a short video about I put together, about our day with Gravity. Due to a very slow internet connection I couldn't upload the video directly here so you can find it on vimeo. And excuse me for the bad quality, it's also because of the internet. Just click on the link and type in the password: wmdr (as in "Worlds Most Dangerous Road"). Enjoy!

https://vimeo.com/78020793
password: wmdr

After a whole day of adrenalin rushes and rocky mountain roads shaking your body at least I felt like jello, and I didn't have to make an effort to fall asleep that night. The morning after we enjoyed a good hostel breakfast and spent the day in the city scooping through dozens of handicraft shops, getting amazed and a bit creeped out by dried llama fetuses at the witches market (El mercado de las brujas), and ending the day by having dinner with our Norwegian friend Elise, who also has been volunteering at Corazon Grande. After a long but fun day we jumped on the last bus towards Cochabamba, woke up to the sunrise at the mountains and returned to our every day life here at the girls home. Felt like we'd been away for weeks.



A taylor made winter jacket i bought. It was done in a few hours, cost bs 120 (12€). A-mazing!

 
Julia and dead llamas - again! (she just can't stay away from them)
A puppet show with llamas, sheep and a zeebra wtf?
Awesome sleeping bus!